Saturday, June 25, 2016

Inspiration from the runway: my S/S 2016 RTW favorites

Fashion shows fascinate me a lot and they can sometimes have me moaning Oooh's and Aaah's and Oh my gaaawd's. Some people find catwalk fashion too extreme, as if it's an irrealistic thought that designer's work would ever be worn in the real world, away from the catwalk, but I think those people are just dull. I can't even imagine the dull fashion in regular stores would be if designer's fashion would only be slightly less extravagant! 

I thought it would be fun to share with you my favorite collections from the S/S 2016 ready-to-wear shows, as I am so excited about some pieces! Well, some pieces - it turned out to be too many, as you will see, but it's worth to scroll through it :-)


When Tommy Meets Boho, might've been the best thing ever. Apparently, Jamaica (and the Caribbean in general) was the main inspiration for this collection, but Tommy Hilfiger gave it its own twist. Jamaica mixed with the genteel blue and a touch of 70s turned out to be the perfect combination. I loved the knitted details (those hats are awesome!), the pretty necklaces, striped patterns... the whole collection is just outstanding yet very elegant and neat - one that has my boho heart.


Alexander McQueen's show reminded me of the 19th century about which I read in the books that I treasure so much. But apparently, designer Sarah burton was inspired by the Huguenots that escaped from France to England in the 17th century. 
There were flower patterns and lace and ruffles and clog shoes, but also see-through fabrics showing breasts underneath a long dress. All together a simple proof that fashion from times past long ago is in no way something for the past alone. This collection I found so powerful and attractive, while at the same time the models looked tenderly soft, vulnerable and feminine. 
I especially loved the denim look as seen in picture #2, a look that even though a bit tougher compared to all those long dresses, in no way mismatched the collection. The jacket reminded me of some pirate or military officer, though when worn by a woman became elegant and feminine (something that I absolutely prefer over boyish looks).


Oh my Gucci! - This collection is so overwhelming - so many colors, patterns, fabrics and details - but it is in no way silly or clown-ish, it's rather permeated by sophistication. Although retro/vintage-inspired, everything is new and refreshing. The whole collection screams confidence, "not giving a sh*t", something that I much appreciate. 
There's the fur coat, some mermaid-ish nude, shiny and glitter fabrics, huge eye wear, hair accessories, ruffles, bows, even gloves!... just to name a few. I love the white suit with embroidered flowers, the one-fabric costumes, fluttery pants (they look incredibly comfy!), and the China-inspired fabrics. This collection would steal anyone's heart who likes a look that stands out, that is different yet enormously confident.  
It's as if Alessandro Michele is to say: experiment with your look, try out new ones, there are no rules...just taste (or at least, that's what I would think someone who created such a magnificent show would say). 


Even though a lot of white, Balenciaga's collection is pretty fun when you look more closely. Those baggy pants, together with the crop tops and the bum bags, reminded me a lot of fashion (and Britney Spears) back in the 90s! - although those baggy pants did not use to be made out of satin, and were most likely not entirely white. But it's amazing to see how that 90s-style (that some of us are still in disgust with) can turn out so differently when just changing out materials and colors.
There are also some lingerie-inspired elements, and models walked down the runway on laced slippers. Overall, obviously a great combination. 


If there's something Belgium can be proud of, it is Dries van Noten's S/S 16 RTW collection. When I first saw it, I "Oh my gawd"ed like crazy. It was just perfect. The collection was definitely creative, that's for sure, and all looks where just a perfect composition of patterns, fabrics and colors. Creating with the imagination of a child, but with the class and craftsmanship of an adult-being. I could talk about this collection all day, but I'll discuss only a few here to save you from endless boredom.

Let's start with the fluttery night blue pants, as seen in picture #1. Aren't those the most perfect pants you have ever seen? I would die for a pair of those! They are certainly classy, combined with that brown belt and the white blouse, and the golden wings-shaped design on the blouse in combination with the golden details on the pants, light up the entire look. Notice the brown heels matching the belt - altogether a tremendously successful look.

The look on the immediate right of the first is discussable, but just take a look at the long gloves, with a see-through pattern, covering the entire lower arm. It somewhat reminds me of the terrible decision some young boys make when putting on a long sleeved shirt right under a short sleeved T-shirt - it looks terrible! - although the way Dries Van Noten puts it, it's suddenly cool, original, and fashionable. The proof it's sure possible anything can be made cool.

The third look is a somewhat strange combination: a bright golden cape-like jacket on a turtle-neck shirt, together with a loose bright purple pair of pants. It may sound weird at first, but when you look at it, it may come to your mind that this combination is not that far-fetched at all. On the contrary - worn with those high heels, it suddenly becomes a pretty confident, feminine and independent look.

Fourth look: a spaghetti strapped dress, on top of a sleeveless transparent shirt, appeared to me to be something that I would wear when being 9 yrs old and trying to dress myself - who would ever guess it could actually look awesome?! Again, put some heels underneath and you're ready to rock! Cute and girly, but none the less somewhat mature.

Next row, forth picture: an extremely huge coat, covered with an excessively screaming pattern? On point. Notice the blouse peaking over the top of the coat, and the way sunglasses and high heels can make a huge coat look adorable and classy.

Third row, forth look: how cool is this cape?! Apparently a bright golden cape totally goes together with my grandmother's checkered pants. I guess you must be a very talented designer to have ever guessed that. I can't really tell to what the pink-colored see-through fabric belongs - an interesting piece of detail.

Fourth row, first look: I think this may be what I as a child believed a fashionable person would look like. Perhaps it's the model's childish shape of face, but this look with its powdered pink coat on top of those bright colored clothes looks as if it was taken straight out of a dress-up box somewhere in the attic - and it may sound as if that is something bad, but that's not what I think at all! On the contrary, I believe everybody should dress up as if there was only this dress-up box full of random stuff to choose from! What a wonderful thing would that be!

In short, Dries van Noten's collection consists out of (metallic) colors (a lot of golden and purple), see-through fabrics and gloves, high heels, a lot of layering, lovely patterns, capes, and extraordinary combinations. A dream of a collection.


There were a few things that came to my mind when I saw Givenchy's S/S 16 RTW collection: a swimming cap (#1), a milkmaid (#2) and Lord of the Rings (#4). I don't think I'd ever thought that these things could ever be turned into a beautiful piece of designer work, but Givenchy proved me wrong. Fashion can turn anything into fashion.
The masks that are shown in last three pictures fascinated me, and I think they are scary in a beautiful kind of way. Mask-look #1 reminded me of Cleopatra, #3 of the Roman empire, but I believe Riccardo Tisci got his inspiration from somewhere else, like the 19th century and tribal traditions - is what I've learned, I wouldn't have guessed it myself. 
Even so I think it's an impressive combination of gothic vibes, lace, metal and subtile patterns.


Hawaiian influence is heavily visible in Anna Sui's collection. At the same time, it's very much Anna-Sui-ish: easy, comfy, colorful but not in a bright or screaming way, and the looks get their strength from the details: matching patterned socks in sandals, a flower crown/head band and matching necklace, accessories like the necklace with a huge flower in the middle, or a similar flower on the head. Small details, great class. 
My favorite look is the second one (first row), which I think is especially beautiful. A bohemian look that is perfectly composed.


If a look shows features that are clearly inspired on other cultures and tribes from far away, I'm sold. A few looks from Kenzo seemed to be inspired in exactly that way. Other cultures and countries belong to my main interests and I like to immerse myself in everything from other cultures, from art to traditions to fashion, about which I've seen and read so much, so I like to see these ethnic influences back in my clothes and in my house and even on this blog (you will soon notice). That's why I get over-excited when I see something, like looks, that are drenched in non-Western-ness.  


Another favorite. I don't think Dolce & Gabbana could ever disappoint me. I am in love with the first look: a colorful dress covered with little mirrors. Oh, the details! What a beautiful piece of clothing! It is as if it once belonged to some tribe that has long passed away. This look is topped off perfect with the matching crown, adorable little basket, and shoes. I could look at it forever. I wish that I could see it from up close sometime, what a pleasure would that be! If I would own it, I would probably never wear it, too afraid to ruin it. The most aesthetically worthy piece of fashion is probably not fashion anymore, it's a piece of art that you would expect to find in an art institute instead of on someone's body.
Even though the first look is by far my favorite, the rest of the collection was incredible as well. The 2nd look is beautiful, reminding me of some traditional African costume, combined with a Middle-Eastern pattern. 
Second row, last look, very much appeals to me as well. Although very different from the other D&G looks that I put in this article, it most clearly illustrates the entire collection: a classy look that is all about standing out from the crowd. Together with multicultural influences, it all comes together in a perfect collection. Most of all, this D&G collection was about the love for Italy, but I think that with their collection they expressed more than just that. It's all those gorgeous details, detailed accessories, shoes and bags, detailed patterns and stitched additions, that made this collection such a feast for the eye.


Isabel Marant came with these pirate meets boho/gypsy kind of looks (Did I see the Pirates of the Caribbean too often?). She got her inspiration from Northern India - Rajasthan, to be exact. I don't really know in what way she put her inspiration from India in this collection, but honestly I don't really care either: it seemed to have worked anyhow, because this collection contains some beautiful pieces of clothing.


Exactly as you would expect from Jeremy Scott, his collection is totally different from all the others. It's kitch, it's Barbie, it's screaming bright, and it's fantastic. I adore Jeremy Scott because he seems to be something else - something totally else. I think I can safely say he's insane, an insane genius. It is as if he just tries to tell everyone else that Fashion is FUN, and it seems as if he has fun in fashion, too. The looks he creates may seem to be a bit less sophisticated than some of the looks his colleagues, even though they're probably just as much infused with sophistication, while at the same time this may be the key to his success: it's so simple yet no one else does it. 
Jeremy clearly got inspired by the 60s (How did they put their hair up in those days?! Even if I would want to, I wouldn't know how to do it.), and added in some cartoon-inspired details...Right on the spot. 
I love the huge bracelets by the way, and the way they are put on both arms instead of one. 


I don't think it will get any more romantic, medieval and novel-ish than Rodarte's collection. The ruffles! The velvet! The lace! The blood-red! The gold and the silver! These looks from Rodarte are costumes that I would want to wear off-stage. All sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy got inspired by was poetry and 70s music. What an awesome thing would it be to be able to read poetry and listen to 70s music all day long....for a living!? I can surely tell these looks were inspired on a world that one will only have access to through literature, or music...a world in ages that we never lived, the most beautiful ones because we have never lived them. They may not even been so real...and that's why they are most beautiful. I think that's why these looks are so powerful: they are surreal, and therefore beautiful.


And finally: Marc Jacobs. When inspired by films and the United States, this is what you get: a lot of red-white-blue, a red-and-black striped suit, a elevator's boy type of look, metallic colors, embroidered patches, and an edge of grunge/punk. My favorite look is the first one, third row, which consists out of a gorgeous and detailed top piece, that has this long back part all the way down to the ankles. It looks especially beautiful on her skin color.
Beth Ditto walked down the runway as well during this show, and  I think this was totally awesome! Some websites say she's curvy, while obviously she's more than just curvy, but you know what - that's totally fine! And it's cool she rocked that runway like she did. It's pretty refreshing to have someone like her and with her personality shaking up things a bit - but I'm not pleading to have more super sized models on the runway or anything like that. I do not approve of anorexic type of models, but I can understand why designers would want healthy weight models up there as most clothes look probably best on women with a healthy weight, and no one likes seeing bony legs and scary tiny arms, neither does anyone like to see excessive fat rolls (or acne - like when Moto Guo had models with their faces full with acne in his show.... I don't even like seeing a pimple on my own face, why would I like seeing acne on someone else's? Like why does he pretend acne is cool? Does he not know the freaking annoying and painful that can be? I'm experienced in this field so I would know.) Plead for healthy bodies! And non-acne faces! Fashion, in the end, is a matter of aesthetics, and art, not a matter of imperfections. It may not be real-life-ish, but who says it should be? (If people take fashion shows as an example of how real life should be, or how one should look, they just don't understand the aesthetic/artistic meaning of fashion shows).

Fashion shows inspire me to be more creative when it comes to my looks. To me these shows are an amazing inspiration and I'm impressed by the creativity, sophistication, craftsmanship, details and fabric/pattern usage all these designers have in common. To me a show is a piece of art, a pleasure to look at, and an inspiration to live by. Designer's work is something that I've come to learn to appreciate, and that I now can enjoy thoroughly. What's left for me now is watching these shows from up close one day instead of from behind a computer screen :-)

Thank you for reading.

PS. I know I'm probably a little late with sharing S/S16 details with you, as these shows took place last year, but as I think of fashion shows mainly as a source of inspiration, I don't look at the shows until later, when the actual season is coming up. 

NOTION: All photos in this article are from www.vogue.com

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2 comments:

  1. Wow! Ik vind dit wel stoer, vooral die hele kleurrijke outfits! Zo gaaf!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Allemaal heel gaaf, maar Alexander McQueen is wel mijn ultieme favoriet. Zo classy allemaal.

    ReplyDelete

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